Watermelon standing in for raw fish is the whole conceit and it works better than it sounds — you cure it in soy, sesame and a bit of chilli, and the texture ends up genuinely close to tuna once it's had time to sit. Chef Emily was clear that it needs that marinating time and can't be rushed, which is the difference between it working and it being a bowl with fruit in it. It's also entirely vegan, which meant nobody on our team needed an alternative.
Ben